Transitions from the Mountains to work, rock, school and back around again.

Mt Grenville

Well it has been along time since I wrote, I lost the excitement to write for the past while and today I felt inspired so here we go.

In May Fred Giroux went on our expedition into the Homathko Ice-Field and had a fun successful trip putting up 3 new lines on 3 different peaks.

Backcountry Pizza courtesy of Fred! Pretty sweet kitchen eh!?

Standing on the summit ridge of Grenville were we topped out our route Melquidas. It was a short walk to the summit from there. Photo by Fred Giroux

Our routes from the trip.
Melquidas AI4 M4+ 350m, Mt Grenville
Remedios the Beauty AI3 600m, Peak 9331
Macondo 5.10 600m, Galleon Peak

You can find the trip reports here:

https://gripped.com/news/lauchlan-award-2017-new-homathko-routes-climbed/
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214444/Peak-9331-Northeast-Face-and-New-Routes-on-Mt-Grenville-and-Galleon-Peak

Also a huge thank you to the John Lauchlan Memorial Award and all there sponsors for helping make this trip possible!

http://www.johnlauchlanaward.com/pages/Main%20Pages/How%20to%20Apply.htm

After our trip I headed to Wyoming to work 2 NOLS course in the Wind River Range. On each trip we climbed a variety of rock snow and ice to make it to the summit of a number of mountains. Gannett Peak, Wyoming highest point, Nylon Peak, Mt Bonneville, Mt Warren, Doublet, & Dinwoody Peak.

I had the pleasure of working with Joe Frost, Galen Wilder and Chris Dickson and 23 students total. It was a wonderful summer working with these 3 great people. Chris and I worked 55 days in a row together and become wonder friends. Excited to connect with these people again soon! 

Teaching a Mountain Anatomy and Glaciology class Photo by Chris Dickson

Chris Dickson and I spent 55days in a row together this summer. That's along time and all I have to say is this human is rad and we forged a long lasting climbing partnership and friendship. Thanks buddy!! Here we're on the summit of Mt Bonneville.

Chris down climbing on the descent of Bonneville.

3 of our rads students climbing on Nylon Peak.

Climbing into the unknown on Bonneville Spire. We climbed what maybe a new 2 pitch 5.10 variation to the top of Bonneville Spire. Then linking it to the true summit of Bonneville for a total of 8 pitches. Photo by Chris Dickson

Audrey making it look easy on Nylon Peak!

Before leaving WY I got to climb at Wild Iris and a quick alpine rock route on the edge of the Cirque of the Towers. Chris, Galen and I climbed Black Elk on War Bonnett. One of the best alpine rock routes out there in my opinion!

War Bonnett Peak, Wind River Range WY

Chris and Galen climbing the steep splitters on Black Elk!

Galen on the crux pitch.... it gets wide!

Chris enjoying the view from up high in the Winds.

Good looking crew right there ;)

When work came to a close in WY I flow to the east coast to visit my lovely friend Kate Sirianni. We roamed around New Hampshire for a bit then bumped over into New Brunswick to visit my family before driving back to the west. Once back in WY Kate went to work a NOLS course and I ventured back to the coast for some Squamish granite.

It was great to roll into town and go climbing with some great friends Bryan Sexauer, Paul McSorley, Roger Yim, Fred Giroux, Greg Sinclair & Katie Oram. And also hang out and drink beers with numerous other awesome people!!

It wasn't long and my time on the coast come to a close and a new chapter was to be started. I had enrolled in a 13week Timber Framing Program at College of the Rockies in Cranbrook BC. There have been a number of different feelings that have pulsed through my body as I have been chiseling timbers in the East Kootenays. And honestly any feelings that had me wondering if I have chosen the right thing have disappeared:
1. The community of people I have meet here have been so warm and welcoming!
2. Timber Framing is really fun!
3. I'm working toward some of my personal goals.
4. There really is no real right thing in this cause, it seems to me that being present and having as much fun as you can is the most important. If you can do that life is pretty freaking awesome! At least it is for me right now!!

The climbing around Cranbrook is predominately sport climbing which is great because I have been pushing myself to try hard and project routes (something I haven't really done until now).

When I arrived in Cranbrook I headed to Arq Mountain Center and bought a 3 month membership to climb and train while I'm here. In the first 2 weeks I meet of few folks and got out climbing at a few of the local areas.

First it was Perry Creek. The climbing here is rad! We climbed on Baby Bum Wall. The climbing is steep & sustained polished rock with small seams and edges to pick your way up the routes. There are other crags at Perry with numerous routes for all abilities.

Noah working the moves out on a beauty 12a at Baby Bum Wall, Perry Creek.

Lakit Lake came second, which by the sounds of things is unusual when climbing around Cranbrook, because it it the spot! Lakit is steep and positive climbing with often big moves and decent holds. This is a classic sport climbing spot with routes from 5.10 to 5.13+.

Drew working the moves out on a 12c at Lakit Lake. Photo by Kate Sirianni

Noah red pointing at 12+ route at Lakit Lake.

Climbing the beauty stone at Lakit Lake. Photo by Kate Sirianni

Over the past month I have got to help out with the Arq Youth Climbing Team. This crew is awesome they are so fun andsupportive of each other it is an honor to work with them! Thanks Gord for letting me help out.

I also went on a Thanksgiving road trip to Skaha, another first. I'm sorry that I hadn't made it sooner! Skaha you're amazing! So excited to go back!

Heather working out the moves on a 12a at Muscle Beach, Skaha.

Ineke lets her feet go at Muscle Beach!

Gord working through the pump at Muscle Beach.

Needless to say I think this place is rad with exceptional people, great climbing and no crowds! Also a shout out to Arq Mountain Center for being a supportive, kind and fun climbing environment!
Check them out here:

http://arqmountaincentre.com/

With the weeks passing and the temps dropping I think of my sport climbing projects a Lakit and Perry and they seem distant..... my ice tools become more present. I cannot wait to scratch and swing my way up more spectacular mixed lines this winter. My eyes wonder to Fisher Peak and the Steeples that dominate the skyline on my walk to school. They have a healthy dusting of snow and are calling my name. Seems like I should listen!

Thanks so much to Drew Leiterman, Noah Beek, Heather Burrows, Marshall Burrows, Ineke Rhebergen, Gord McArthur & Kevin Martin for sharing ropes, road trips, laughs and good times! You all rock! I'm looking forward to many more!