Alpinism..... Conditions, Partner's & Commitment

I arrived back from Patagonia on April 2nd and pretty quickly got myself organized to head north into Strathcona Provincial Park on Vancouver Island. Strathcona was BC's 1st Provincial Park. Our objective was a large east face that to our knowledge hasn't been climbing or attempted in the conditions we were heading in with.

Phil climbing with the beautiful Island mountains in the distance.

On April 4th I met with Phil Stone at his house on Quadra Island to pack and organize so we could do the 9km hike in the next day.

Phil and I went through our gear a few time trying to make our packs as light as possible because we had to climb with everything and descend into another valley to finish.

My Gear List was:
tools, crampons, helmet, 4 pins, 8 screws,, half ropes, 10m of rap tat, 2.5 pickets, 5 wires, 2 cams, , torso pad, light sleeping bag, bivy, beta light shelter, snow shoes, poles, 1L water bottle and mini first aid kit. 2.5 days of food and Phil had the other 2.5 days and also our personal stuff.

The hike in was a good hall. We broke trail in mostly soft, mid calf, deep snow for about 8 hrs. We both thought we would get there a bit faster. I guess the heavy packs and snow wasn't anticipated to be as hard as it was. Regardless we got to the meadow at the base of this massive face and set up camp and ate some food.

A 400m ish rock buttress to the NE of the face... we were calling it the Mitre.

Camp and looking up the valley.

As we woke the next day the weather was nice and brisk with a sun/cloud filled sky. Our plan was to observe the face and see how much was falling especially in the couloir we planned to climb the next day. The couloir seemed to be really stable with very little activity, the other routes that had more exposed to sun were pretty active so we knew if things got to much warmer we wouldn't be in a good place so we planned on getting an alpine start... 3:30am.

Phil cruzing in the meadow.

We organized most of our things the night before to get a head start on the morning. Things flowed and we were off to the couloir. We roped up at the base and simu-climbed for about 180m to our first crux, to this point we had been climbing fantastic 55-65 degree hard snow and ice, it was a 10m vertical step. It was awesome! At the top of the step the route returned its 55-65 degrees and we continued pitching it out through a few more short bulges.

Getting in the goods! Photo by Phil Stone

Me above the first crux section we encountered. Photo by Phil Stone

Phil coming up the Couloir.

On our 7th or 8th pitch we started to get some small sluffs in the couloir which was concerning, they were small so we keep going. By the time I got to a belay stance behind this massive boulder the sluffs had started to get larger. Also the terrain steepened again to a 20m vertical crux section and we couldn't see around the corner. We sat in our little safe zone and watched the sluffs get larger for about 1hr while we considered our options and ate food.

Our high point.

We figured we climbed about 600m up the couloir before we turned around. The decent was an adventure trying to stay out of the sluffs and then traversing to trees lower down to get out of the couloir.

Our route. 

The climbing was awesome! Conditions just didn't hold long enough for us. In retrospect we should have climbed at night and tried to top out in the morning. Snow conditions would have been better because of colder temps and we did have a full moon. Regardless a lot was learned about this route and I'm very excited to get back in there again!

Thanks Phil for a great trip! It was a pleasure to share stories and climb with you. Look forward to more in the future!

I have a few thoughts on climbing alpine routes like this one. Who climbs with all there gear up and over something? Not many people. So somethings I think that are important to consider before jumping into a unknown or large alpine route of this commitment level are:
1. Being honest with yourself and skill level no matter how much you want it, the mountain will always be there, you may not if you don't listen.
2. Way the a) objective hazards and b) subjective hazards.
a) are they worth it and how can you minimize them... snow conditions, weather, etc
b) control your mind! it is what will keep you calm and composted when you need it most! Listen to your gut it can be the difference been life and death.   
3. Your partner. To me the partner is the most important and you'll know right away who you can climb with and there comfort level when shit gets real. You and your partner are there to push each other, feed of each others energy, and keep each other is check. And if something big happens you trust them with your life. It is an intimate relationship, people outside of this environment will have trouble understanding.
4. Go light! It is easier on your body, you can move fast which puts you in the the way of objective hazards for less time. Take only what you need!

Other options.

A Season Ends & Another Begins

Mate Che?

Patagonia has been pretty great to me this season! I have heard from others that climbing peaks is a rarity and getting students on glacier is a close second. Fortunately this year the courses and personal adventures I have been on had good weather windows and climbing and glacier travel was available to us. And this final adventure of the Patagonia NOLS season was a standout in true Aysen fashion!

First day in the alpine classroom!  

Yeah Bud, Daren loving life!

Kai enjoying some reading.

Life couldn't be much better!

It started with 2 days of sunny weather that soon turned to off and on rain for about 10 days as we travelled from Laguna Tranquilo up Rio Norte into the alpine and dropping back into another valley (estero perez) and then back up into the alpine and down into Rio El Engano.

Up on a high point.

When we arrived an Campo Los Banos we were treated with an amazing cultural experience from Don Manolo and Senora Rosa. We had an lamb Asado with pedre, sopapias and ensalada..... so good!

Don Manolo preparing the Lamb

Skinning the Lamb

Hanging before Asado.

Traditional Asado in Aysen Patagonia

Senora Rosa making sopapias

Haley and Senora Rosa working the dough

From Los Banos we headed up into the alpine. Our first day of travel to get to the base of our ridge was nice and sunny and rejuvenated all of us.

The crew!

Betsy and Don Manolo at a puesto where we got some of our food horse-packed to

Once we organized our food and mountain gear we started the move up. It was wet and didn't let up for 6 days... rain, rain, rain, some snow and a bit of wind.... classic Patagonia. The students learned the meaning of patients and hunkering to get the window to move up on a glacier in Patagonia.

Looking east down Rio El Engano

When the weather had a small break we moved from the trees into the alpine and started getting more skills out so we could traverse be ready to traverse Cordon Colmillo. Fortunately the weather broke and we started into it.

Day 1 on the glacier had use head up and scout our route. There was a lot of rock and glacier transitions which allowed for a steep and safe learning curve for the students.

Kai leading the first day on glacier

Colmillo on the right and unnamed peaks to the west(left).

Day 2 had use push the route all the way across so if we got hit be weather we had a straight forward exit down to Rio El Magin.

Amy explaining the route to the other groups, with Colmillo in the distance (centre).

Day 3 was climbing day! Daren Opeka and I headed with 5 students and Felipe V. to attempt Cerro Colmillo with Betsy Winston and Kai Girard heading to a large peak that had a large glaciated approach.
Daren, Felipe and I along with the students got on top of Colmillo at around 4pm. The route we climbed could very well be a first ascent Northeast Ridge 5.4 110m PD. Thanks to Alex, Evan, Parker, Jan and Nano for a fun day of climbing! Also Betsy and Kai had there group reach the summit of a peak we called Nieve Grande. Overall a successful day of climbing.

Colmillo, we climbing the right hand ridge in this photo.

Summit of Nieve Grande! Patagonia Sins Represas

Day 4 Kai and I got up early and went for Colmillo's NE Ridge for some fun instructor development. We left camp at 5am and got back at 7:55am for breakfast..... super fun!! As the day progressed the weather moved in and we started to get rain then snow and for the next couple  days, 5 & 6 we were tent bound.

Day 7 opened and the weather let up so we headed out for some ice/rock climbing and fixed rope ascension.... which turned out to be a highlight for a large number of the group.

Skills classroom.

The next day we ran like chickens from the coming weather and bushwacked hard down to the valley. At this point the students where travelling independent of instructors.

For the next 6 days we organized group gear and gave the students the remaining tools needed for multi-day travel without instructors and then embarked on 4 days of fun. We had some full on mean bush.... quiet possibly the most punishing bushwacking I have been in and came across some hot springs on the way our. Finally meeting up with the students at our pick up spot. They were full of smiles and had amazing experiences!

Sunset looking west from camp

This semester had everything 23 days of rain/snow, 6 days of full sun, mean bush, and a very special cultural experience. Thanks to all the students, Alex, Evan, Abbe, Haley, Chloe, Amy, Chris, Gab, Boris, McKail, Parker, Tucker, Dan, Jesse, Chino, Nano and Jan, for performing at a tremendous level and the I-team, Betsy Winston, Kai Girard, Daren Opeka, and Felipe V, for being dedicated to educating!

How could you not come back to this?

See you in September 2012 Aysen Patagonia when I came for some more adventures!
Thanks Betsy Winston for all the photos!

El Canal/Meliquina Mountain Traverse

Co. Agudo eastern edge of the Northern Icefield Photo by Frank Preston

On Jan 6th our students arrived for our next 30 day mountain trip. Frank Preston and I had planned a trip that started by heading up Rio El Canal to Canal Glacier teaching skills there, and then pushing over an exposed glacier shoulder to the Meliquina Glacier and traverse to Cerro La Torre and out the Leones Valley (about 125km).

Canal Glacier, Hyades in the distance and Queso Grande left of center Photo by Frank Preston

As far as we knew the route had not be done by NOLS and not many other people travel or even visit this particular area so we had little beta. Frank had been in the El Canal Valley the year prior and I had just finished a trip with friends on the Meliquina so we knew both those areas, linking them was uncertain though.

After we got the students there gear and organized them for what was to come we got on a bus and headed south to Lago General Carrera to Rio El Canal to start our trip.

We started with a 5 day re-ration and no technical gear. So we could get used to the basics of travelling and living. On day 5 we dropped down and got all our technical gear and 10 days of food. From our camp it was about 2 days travel to the glacier. We made it to our camp in good time and started to plan for technical glacier and snow classes to set the students up for peak climbs and leading ropes teams.

Teaching snow school Photo by Frank Preston

First day roped up on the Canal Glacier and travelling through firn zone Photo by Frank Preston

Frank and I split into 2 small groups, he took 6 students and attempted the east most sister and I took 2 students and scouted our next move.... the scout didn't take long as we made our way through a steep 3 class boulder field to the glacial shoulder. From views we had earlier we knew the glacier shoulder went.
So the 3 of use dropped back down to the Canal Glacier and headed west through firn to climb what we called Queso Grande of the Canal. We made good time getting up there navigated the bergshrund, climbed steep snow and a short section of 4th class rock to a scree slope that led us to the summit 2200m. The views of the Northern Icefield where spectacular! We headed back to camp.

The next day we pushed the route we scouted and then onto the Meliquina glacier where we dug in for 2 days to learn more skills and get a feel for perimeter camping. We taught snow pro, munter/mule, and got students leading rope teams.

Students on the Meliquina Glacier checking out this big old crevasse Photo by Frank Preston

Our 10 ration was coming to an end so we dropped down off glacier. A group headed down into the Meliquina Valley to get our next 8 days of food. When they returned we planned on heading back up to the glacier and traverse to Cerro La Torre. As we planned we made it to the nunatak camp below La Torre. Frank and I took 5 students and climbed a very exposed and wonderful snow ridge to a rock summit just out of camp. That night the winds started to come in and we packed up early the next morning and ran/got blown down trying to get off the glacier. The winds where probably in the 80-90km range. It was pulling the ice rounds from the frozen snow and pelting us as we ran. We got to shelter on a rock ridge and hunkered there for 2 days before we had to descend into the Meliquina Valley for an Asado (BBQ) at the local Quacho's Campo.

Beautiful ridge line climb with the nunatak camp behind Photo by Frank Preston

The Asado was great and we all really appreciated the hospitality Don Enrique Esponza showed us.

The next 8 days had Frank go with 4 students and I with the other 4 for different objectives. Do to weather not to much climbing happened. We got in position to climb Co. Poblete but the winds again had us running like chickens done the to the trees (90-110km). Even though the winds didn't allow us to climb we got to do an afternoon that involved ice climbing and pulley systems with a flatland demo of single team crevasse rescue.

Cerro Hyades with the winds coming Photo by Frank Preston

Overall an amazing mountain course area with 17 days of traveling on glacier, 4 peak climbs, and great cultural experiences!

Thanks to Frank and all the students for a great course!

Asado with Don Enrique Photo by Frank Preston

Holidays + Mountain Adventure + Patagonia = Awesome!

This is the team! Starting left-right Top Betsy Winston, Me, Michel Raab, Steve R, Pete Blau Bottom Patty Soto, Tre-c Dumais and Mita C.

Some people eat turkey, relax with family and party over the holidays. This holiday was a bit of a different one for me. I spent the past 8-10 days on the Meliquina glacier with 7 friends exploring and climbing peaks.

Laguna Meliquina and Meliquina Glacier Photo by Betsy Winston

So on christmas eve we where on the road early so we could start hiking into the mountains. The next day we got up to the alpine with great views of our objects and route.

Pretty Freakin' beautiful eh! Photo by Betsy Winston

Our next move was up to the base of peak 2602m or what we dubbed Cerro Meliquina and dug in there. Once we established camp we chatted about routes and teams for trying to climb Cerro Meliquina. First we tried as a team of 8 but got shut down by terrain. The next day we split into 2 groups and tried the northeast face and southwest face both groups had limited success due to terrain and heavy winds.

Travelling on the Meliquina Glacier Photo by Betsy Winston

Looking out over the Meliquina Photo by Betsy Winston

The next day 5 folks continued on the traverse to our next base camp while Betsy, Michel and I went for the NE face again and then planned on joining up with the rest of the group later in the day. We cached our gear at the base of the climb and then went for it.

The first pitch is the crux, while navigating the bergshrund you get to a short section of ice capped by overhanging snow which pushes you left onto rock after a few moves of mixed climbing you get back onto moderate snow up to 60-65 degrees. The remainder of the climb was navigating 60-65 degree glacier ice/snow and cracks. After our time on the summit we descended the north ridge which involved a short rappel. We picked up our cache and then headed to meet up with the rest of the group. The route is 600m AI2 5.7 D.

Sunrise Photo by Michel Raab

Me climbing the crux pitch on Cerro Meliquina Photo by Michel Raab

Betsy at the top of the first pitch Photo by Michel Raab

Betsy leading out Photo by Michel Raab

Summit of Cerro Meliquina

Cerro Meliquina our route went up the far left side of the glaciated face to the rock summit in the centre Photo by Betsy Winston

Beautiful peaks on the Meliquina Photo by Betsy Winston

On the way across the Meliquina glacier we had amazing views of the Northern Icefield and Cerro San Valentine which is the highest peak in Patagonia. Also the wind started picking up with gusts up to probably 60km/hr. Once reunited with the rest of our team we decided to drop off the glacier to a lower camp to reduce our exposure to the wind and coming weather. Our day started at 5am and after we built the rock walls for our tents it was around 10pm and time for bed. A long day of climbing and moving.

That night the wind didn't let up and we had off and on showers. With the weather not ideal we decided to relax for the day.

The next day the weather didn't improve so we headed down to the trucks and back to the NOLS Campo to celebrate New Years with the folks there. All in all the trip was amazing!

Thanks to Michel and Betsy for putting this trip all together! 

San Valentine 4000 plus metres highest peak in Patagonia Photo by Betsy Winston

Another great trip in the Patagonian Mountains!