Life in a Nutshell... Climbing!

Luc pulling hard in Evandale

Well a lot has been going on in the past bit and I haven't been able to update you all on things.... sorry for that. Fortunately I have sometime and can fill you in on the happenings.

After my attempt on new route on an unclimbed face on Vancouver Island with Phil Stone I started climbing at the Romperroom in Nanaimo, On the Rocks in Campbell River and when the weather was good got in some climbing at Horne Lake. I also got to visit and good freind on Cortez Island, thanks Heidi. When my time on the island was up I border a plan and headed home to New Brunswick for a 2 week visit with the family.

During my time in NB I got in a fair amount of climbing.

NB rock climbing is excellent! The majority is great granite climbing from easy 5 class to 5.13. The climbing hub is Welsford where Cochrane Lane, The Sunnyside, Bald Peak, Bear Mountain, and Mt Douglas can be found. St. Andrews also has some great climbing. The ethics change from area to area and the Climb Eastern Canada forum provides insight on the ethics and development going on in these places. See my links to check it out.

I spent most of my time climbing at Cochrane Lane and Sunnyside, with a evening visit to Evandale, a new bouldering area of high quality granite.

Cochrane Lane is the main crag in NB with around 350 routes on beautiful pink/grey granite. The climbing here is often mixed and a single rack can get you on most routes. This is where climbing in NB first started.

Me and Franca Photo by Emilie De Groot

Some fun climbing on the lower part of Smoking Cracks Photo by Franca Zambito

Emilie seconding Smoking Cracks, Minkey Wall, Welsford NB

Some recommended routes I've climbed are: Astroboy, Ragged Edges, Gumby Roof, Sticky Fingers, Smoking Cracks, Warm and Sultry Evening and there are a number of others I haven't yet to climb... soon though soon!

Marty in Evandale NB

Franca bouldering in Evandale

A 6m perfect SPITTLER hands! Photo by Franca Zambito

Thanks to Franca, Luc, Adam, Terry and Marty for climbing with me!

When my time was up in NB my next stop with Washington State where I was taking an NOLS professional Avy Course. It started on May 15 at the NOLS Pacific Northwest Branch. The 8 of use gathered and had a day of classroom and then headed to Washington Pass for some time in the snow. This is the same day Mac Schafers died while kayaking Cameron Creek on Vancouver Island. He was a wonderful friend.

I was on my splitboard which was great considering I haven't been on it this past winter due to working in the southern hemisphere..... we had great weather and fun time practicing snow assessment and beacon searches. We also got in some turns and a nice 19km tour one day. All in all a great time in a new area for me.

When the avalanche course finished it was time to head into the Cascades for a 30 day North Cascades Mountain trip with NOLS. Our students arrived on May 23rd and we got them outfitted and before we knew it we were up in the snow teaching classes and having fun.

Our route started from a small remote, boat access village called Holden, up Lake Chelan. From there we travelled past Hart and Lyman Lake, Lyman Glacier, Cloudy Peak and up and over Spider Gap down into Chiwawa Watershed. This was for 8 days. We got picked up here and shuttled to the White River Tr. head to start our way up into the Glacier Peak Wilderness Area. It took us a few days before we got into the alpine and once there we had to hunker in our tents for 4 days with only an hr our 2 here and there it teach classes before the wind and snow kicked back up. The winds gusted to about 90km/hr which made for low to zero visibility.

We were unable to get to our second planned re-ration location so had to back track down the White River. Once at the trail head we picked up our 3rd re-raton and headed back up for another go at Glacier Peak.

Once back in the alpine we took advantage of a weather for a long moving day so we could be in position for an attempt at Glacier Peak.

The next day condition weren't great for travel so we took advantage of that and taught more skills classes and planned for the next day to be a summit attempt.

The student leaders Collin and Natalie woke us at 3:30am and where so psyched the weather was clear and they made the call to start getting ready to go. We started out of camp around 5am. Travelling conditions were excellent and we climbed fast. We were on the summit at around 11:45am. We got a summit photo, enjoyed the amazing views of Baker and Rainer and then headed back to camp. The group was high on life and felt like everything came together for them. That was our 3rd day of sun in about 25 days.

We woke up to warm/wet/white-out conditions the next day but that didn't stop the group from staying positive and working hard through challenging navigation on and off glacier. We slowly and safely made our way over Cool Glacier and onto Chocolate Glacier before finding our descent down Chocolate Ridge and into the Suiattle River drainage.

Slideshow put together my Madhu Chikarahju

The next 3 days saw use travel through challenging forest, crossing creeks and rivers and finally getting onto the Suiattle River Trail and out to our pick with time to spare. Our last day was sunny too so spirits where high.

Thanks to Madhu Chikarahju, my co-instructor and our students: Natalie, Collin, Zach, John, Freddie, Mason, Jeremy, Megan, Aaron and Sam for maintaining a positive attitude in challenging conditions! When you put your time in sometimes everything comes together. Nice work folks!!

Well now it is time to organize my gear and head to Squamish for some climbing, and soon will be venturing to the Yukon for another stroll in the mountains.

Mac Schafers I'm thinking of you buddy!

Remembering a Fallen Friend!

Mac on Clenndening Creek Photo by Jan Dettmer

I first met Mac Schafers in 2005 when he came to Starthcona Park Lodge to take the Canadian Outdoor Leadership Training course. He was young and motivated. It wasn't long after his COLT course he and I were running rivers all over Vancouver Island and the BC Coast and climbing in BC and Australia.

Mac and I shared a mutual love of exploring and finding new places to play! He and I would go explore little travelled rivers around Gold River (Quatchka Creek FD) and paddled the Upana, Heber, Pamela and Ucona Rivers. We also met up for some rock climbing at Arapilies in Austraila.... where Heidi and I drove the van from Katoomba to Araps about... 1000kms one way when Emma and Mac went to Hawaii to see his family for 2 weeks. Emma was more peeved then Mac..... Mac couldn't be mad, he would commonly see where I was coming from and said I probably would have done the same but asked first... a problem I have.

Upana falls.... Mac won rock, paper, scissors so I had to go first and take the photo.

Mac on the Monkey Canyon section of the Gold River

Mac and I heading to Freda Creek for a HIGH water run in my old Pathfinder

If you knew Mac, you would have experienced his motivation, huge smile, his legendary hug and thoughtful questions and answers. He was commonly the first person to volunteer to help and very rarely wanted or expected anything in return.

Mac lived life to the fullest and was working to make the world a better place through working with Solar and Renewable Energies. As well as making the people around him better with all his positive energy.

He alway told me when I got back from working with NOLS or an adventure I psyched him up to get out there and play. So Mac all my adventures are dedicated to you and I will strive to carry your energy with me throughout them and life.  

I love you Mac and treasure all our time and adventures together, I'm so sad it had to end so soon.

Lois River in Powell River... Mac and I had the FD of this in 2007

Mac Schafers left us on May 15, 2012. He was paddling on Vancouver Island when he became pinned under a log.

Alpinism..... Conditions, Partner's & Commitment

I arrived back from Patagonia on April 2nd and pretty quickly got myself organized to head north into Strathcona Provincial Park on Vancouver Island. Strathcona was BC's 1st Provincial Park. Our objective was a large east face that to our knowledge hasn't been climbing or attempted in the conditions we were heading in with.

Phil climbing with the beautiful Island mountains in the distance.

On April 4th I met with Phil Stone at his house on Quadra Island to pack and organize so we could do the 9km hike in the next day.

Phil and I went through our gear a few time trying to make our packs as light as possible because we had to climb with everything and descend into another valley to finish.

My Gear List was:
tools, crampons, helmet, 4 pins, 8 screws,, half ropes, 10m of rap tat, 2.5 pickets, 5 wires, 2 cams, , torso pad, light sleeping bag, bivy, beta light shelter, snow shoes, poles, 1L water bottle and mini first aid kit. 2.5 days of food and Phil had the other 2.5 days and also our personal stuff.

The hike in was a good hall. We broke trail in mostly soft, mid calf, deep snow for about 8 hrs. We both thought we would get there a bit faster. I guess the heavy packs and snow wasn't anticipated to be as hard as it was. Regardless we got to the meadow at the base of this massive face and set up camp and ate some food.

A 400m ish rock buttress to the NE of the face... we were calling it the Mitre.

Camp and looking up the valley.

As we woke the next day the weather was nice and brisk with a sun/cloud filled sky. Our plan was to observe the face and see how much was falling especially in the couloir we planned to climb the next day. The couloir seemed to be really stable with very little activity, the other routes that had more exposed to sun were pretty active so we knew if things got to much warmer we wouldn't be in a good place so we planned on getting an alpine start... 3:30am.

Phil cruzing in the meadow.

We organized most of our things the night before to get a head start on the morning. Things flowed and we were off to the couloir. We roped up at the base and simu-climbed for about 180m to our first crux, to this point we had been climbing fantastic 55-65 degree hard snow and ice, it was a 10m vertical step. It was awesome! At the top of the step the route returned its 55-65 degrees and we continued pitching it out through a few more short bulges.

Getting in the goods! Photo by Phil Stone

Me above the first crux section we encountered. Photo by Phil Stone

Phil coming up the Couloir.

On our 7th or 8th pitch we started to get some small sluffs in the couloir which was concerning, they were small so we keep going. By the time I got to a belay stance behind this massive boulder the sluffs had started to get larger. Also the terrain steepened again to a 20m vertical crux section and we couldn't see around the corner. We sat in our little safe zone and watched the sluffs get larger for about 1hr while we considered our options and ate food.

Our high point.

We figured we climbed about 600m up the couloir before we turned around. The decent was an adventure trying to stay out of the sluffs and then traversing to trees lower down to get out of the couloir.

Our route. 

The climbing was awesome! Conditions just didn't hold long enough for us. In retrospect we should have climbed at night and tried to top out in the morning. Snow conditions would have been better because of colder temps and we did have a full moon. Regardless a lot was learned about this route and I'm very excited to get back in there again!

Thanks Phil for a great trip! It was a pleasure to share stories and climb with you. Look forward to more in the future!

I have a few thoughts on climbing alpine routes like this one. Who climbs with all there gear up and over something? Not many people. So somethings I think that are important to consider before jumping into a unknown or large alpine route of this commitment level are:
1. Being honest with yourself and skill level no matter how much you want it, the mountain will always be there, you may not if you don't listen.
2. Way the a) objective hazards and b) subjective hazards.
a) are they worth it and how can you minimize them... snow conditions, weather, etc
b) control your mind! it is what will keep you calm and composted when you need it most! Listen to your gut it can be the difference been life and death.   
3. Your partner. To me the partner is the most important and you'll know right away who you can climb with and there comfort level when shit gets real. You and your partner are there to push each other, feed of each others energy, and keep each other is check. And if something big happens you trust them with your life. It is an intimate relationship, people outside of this environment will have trouble understanding.
4. Go light! It is easier on your body, you can move fast which puts you in the the way of objective hazards for less time. Take only what you need!

Other options.

A Season Ends & Another Begins

Mate Che?

Patagonia has been pretty great to me this season! I have heard from others that climbing peaks is a rarity and getting students on glacier is a close second. Fortunately this year the courses and personal adventures I have been on had good weather windows and climbing and glacier travel was available to us. And this final adventure of the Patagonia NOLS season was a standout in true Aysen fashion!

First day in the alpine classroom!  

Yeah Bud, Daren loving life!

Kai enjoying some reading.

Life couldn't be much better!

It started with 2 days of sunny weather that soon turned to off and on rain for about 10 days as we travelled from Laguna Tranquilo up Rio Norte into the alpine and dropping back into another valley (estero perez) and then back up into the alpine and down into Rio El Engano.

Up on a high point.

When we arrived an Campo Los Banos we were treated with an amazing cultural experience from Don Manolo and Senora Rosa. We had an lamb Asado with pedre, sopapias and ensalada..... so good!

Don Manolo preparing the Lamb

Skinning the Lamb

Hanging before Asado.

Traditional Asado in Aysen Patagonia

Senora Rosa making sopapias

Haley and Senora Rosa working the dough

From Los Banos we headed up into the alpine. Our first day of travel to get to the base of our ridge was nice and sunny and rejuvenated all of us.

The crew!

Betsy and Don Manolo at a puesto where we got some of our food horse-packed to

Once we organized our food and mountain gear we started the move up. It was wet and didn't let up for 6 days... rain, rain, rain, some snow and a bit of wind.... classic Patagonia. The students learned the meaning of patients and hunkering to get the window to move up on a glacier in Patagonia.

Looking east down Rio El Engano

When the weather had a small break we moved from the trees into the alpine and started getting more skills out so we could traverse be ready to traverse Cordon Colmillo. Fortunately the weather broke and we started into it.

Day 1 on the glacier had use head up and scout our route. There was a lot of rock and glacier transitions which allowed for a steep and safe learning curve for the students.

Kai leading the first day on glacier

Colmillo on the right and unnamed peaks to the west(left).

Day 2 had use push the route all the way across so if we got hit be weather we had a straight forward exit down to Rio El Magin.

Amy explaining the route to the other groups, with Colmillo in the distance (centre).

Day 3 was climbing day! Daren Opeka and I headed with 5 students and Felipe V. to attempt Cerro Colmillo with Betsy Winston and Kai Girard heading to a large peak that had a large glaciated approach.
Daren, Felipe and I along with the students got on top of Colmillo at around 4pm. The route we climbed could very well be a first ascent Northeast Ridge 5.4 110m PD. Thanks to Alex, Evan, Parker, Jan and Nano for a fun day of climbing! Also Betsy and Kai had there group reach the summit of a peak we called Nieve Grande. Overall a successful day of climbing.

Colmillo, we climbing the right hand ridge in this photo.

Summit of Nieve Grande! Patagonia Sins Represas

Day 4 Kai and I got up early and went for Colmillo's NE Ridge for some fun instructor development. We left camp at 5am and got back at 7:55am for breakfast..... super fun!! As the day progressed the weather moved in and we started to get rain then snow and for the next couple  days, 5 & 6 we were tent bound.

Day 7 opened and the weather let up so we headed out for some ice/rock climbing and fixed rope ascension.... which turned out to be a highlight for a large number of the group.

Skills classroom.

The next day we ran like chickens from the coming weather and bushwacked hard down to the valley. At this point the students where travelling independent of instructors.

For the next 6 days we organized group gear and gave the students the remaining tools needed for multi-day travel without instructors and then embarked on 4 days of fun. We had some full on mean bush.... quiet possibly the most punishing bushwacking I have been in and came across some hot springs on the way our. Finally meeting up with the students at our pick up spot. They were full of smiles and had amazing experiences!

Sunset looking west from camp

This semester had everything 23 days of rain/snow, 6 days of full sun, mean bush, and a very special cultural experience. Thanks to all the students, Alex, Evan, Abbe, Haley, Chloe, Amy, Chris, Gab, Boris, McKail, Parker, Tucker, Dan, Jesse, Chino, Nano and Jan, for performing at a tremendous level and the I-team, Betsy Winston, Kai Girard, Daren Opeka, and Felipe V, for being dedicated to educating!

How could you not come back to this?

See you in September 2012 Aysen Patagonia when I came for some more adventures!
Thanks Betsy Winston for all the photos!

El Canal/Meliquina Mountain Traverse

Co. Agudo eastern edge of the Northern Icefield Photo by Frank Preston

On Jan 6th our students arrived for our next 30 day mountain trip. Frank Preston and I had planned a trip that started by heading up Rio El Canal to Canal Glacier teaching skills there, and then pushing over an exposed glacier shoulder to the Meliquina Glacier and traverse to Cerro La Torre and out the Leones Valley (about 125km).

Canal Glacier, Hyades in the distance and Queso Grande left of center Photo by Frank Preston

As far as we knew the route had not be done by NOLS and not many other people travel or even visit this particular area so we had little beta. Frank had been in the El Canal Valley the year prior and I had just finished a trip with friends on the Meliquina so we knew both those areas, linking them was uncertain though.

After we got the students there gear and organized them for what was to come we got on a bus and headed south to Lago General Carrera to Rio El Canal to start our trip.

We started with a 5 day re-ration and no technical gear. So we could get used to the basics of travelling and living. On day 5 we dropped down and got all our technical gear and 10 days of food. From our camp it was about 2 days travel to the glacier. We made it to our camp in good time and started to plan for technical glacier and snow classes to set the students up for peak climbs and leading ropes teams.

Teaching snow school Photo by Frank Preston

First day roped up on the Canal Glacier and travelling through firn zone Photo by Frank Preston

Frank and I split into 2 small groups, he took 6 students and attempted the east most sister and I took 2 students and scouted our next move.... the scout didn't take long as we made our way through a steep 3 class boulder field to the glacial shoulder. From views we had earlier we knew the glacier shoulder went.
So the 3 of use dropped back down to the Canal Glacier and headed west through firn to climb what we called Queso Grande of the Canal. We made good time getting up there navigated the bergshrund, climbed steep snow and a short section of 4th class rock to a scree slope that led us to the summit 2200m. The views of the Northern Icefield where spectacular! We headed back to camp.

The next day we pushed the route we scouted and then onto the Meliquina glacier where we dug in for 2 days to learn more skills and get a feel for perimeter camping. We taught snow pro, munter/mule, and got students leading rope teams.

Students on the Meliquina Glacier checking out this big old crevasse Photo by Frank Preston

Our 10 ration was coming to an end so we dropped down off glacier. A group headed down into the Meliquina Valley to get our next 8 days of food. When they returned we planned on heading back up to the glacier and traverse to Cerro La Torre. As we planned we made it to the nunatak camp below La Torre. Frank and I took 5 students and climbed a very exposed and wonderful snow ridge to a rock summit just out of camp. That night the winds started to come in and we packed up early the next morning and ran/got blown down trying to get off the glacier. The winds where probably in the 80-90km range. It was pulling the ice rounds from the frozen snow and pelting us as we ran. We got to shelter on a rock ridge and hunkered there for 2 days before we had to descend into the Meliquina Valley for an Asado (BBQ) at the local Quacho's Campo.

Beautiful ridge line climb with the nunatak camp behind Photo by Frank Preston

The Asado was great and we all really appreciated the hospitality Don Enrique Esponza showed us.

The next 8 days had Frank go with 4 students and I with the other 4 for different objectives. Do to weather not to much climbing happened. We got in position to climb Co. Poblete but the winds again had us running like chickens done the to the trees (90-110km). Even though the winds didn't allow us to climb we got to do an afternoon that involved ice climbing and pulley systems with a flatland demo of single team crevasse rescue.

Cerro Hyades with the winds coming Photo by Frank Preston

Overall an amazing mountain course area with 17 days of traveling on glacier, 4 peak climbs, and great cultural experiences!

Thanks to Frank and all the students for a great course!

Asado with Don Enrique Photo by Frank Preston