|Summit of Matier with TJ|
These 2 weeks have been all mashed together for me.... I do know that I have had a tone of fun climbing with first Grace, Scotty P and Ben, then Mike and Gen, then Jan, Scotty B and Steph and more recently Sarah, Doug, Gen and TJ. Thanks for all the wonderful climbing!
Grace and I climbed St. Vitus Dance, Wire Tap and went cragging at Nightmare Wall with Ben Ven and Scotty P.
|Scotty Palmer on Hypertension Squamish BC Photo by Ben Venter|
|Sending! Photo by Ben Venter|
|Hand Stacking... Splitter! Photo by Ben Venter|
|Relaxing.... Photo by Ben Venter|
Mike and I went for a burn on Borderline to Blazing Saddles on the Sheriffs Badge... highly recommended!! The next day Gen joined us for a team of 3 and we went to the Upper Malamute and the base of the Grand Wall for some more cragging. We climbed Paul's Crack, Apron Strings, and a few other wonderful cracks! The next day we climbed Bullethead East a beautiful 5 pitch 5.9-10 crack system and then climbed the classic Rainy Day Dream Away so good!
|Gen on the 2nd pitch of Bullethead East|
|Mike coming up a pitch on Bullethead East with Howe Sound behind.|
The climb we did was 11 pitches and went at hard 10d/11a crack and slab. The quality of the rock is amazing on this buttress! If you are heading up to the Joffre Lakes area from Pemberton the buttress is accessed via a logging road on your left about 1km before the 2km sign for Joffre Lakes Provincial Park. As you head up the road it splits go right and drive up until your car cannot go any further or if you have a high clearance 4x4 you can go a few km further. From the camp spot cross the creek on the right and follow the blazed trail, alittle route finding in a few spots, to the toe of the northeast buttress on the left of the valley.
|A beautiful granite buttress up North Joffre Creek logging road.|
The climbing is awesome! Bugaboo quality granite... here is the route description:
pitch 1 - starts off a bit wet and mossy then leads to drier terrian 60m 10a
pitch 2 - a short section of tricky 5.9 face climbing to a bushy climb for 60m
pitch 3 - starts with a 5.10 off fingers crack to a hard 10/11 finger crack 40m
|Scotty B climbing some beautiful cracks|
|Jan Dettmer and Step Peacock climbing up behind us|
|Jan enjoying the stellar granite|
pitch 5 - is a steller 30m splitter hand crack that we linked into another hard 10/11 finger crack to a huge ledge
pitch 6 - move far right into a corner and hand jam up the flake, traverse up and right to a tree belay 50m
From here I would say the best climbing is finished the rest of the route wonders quite a bit and if you got off route the rap stations could be quite challenging to find. All rap stations are fixed on gear or trees. I highly recommend this climb! Even if you're not a climber the area is an amazing place to go hiking or scrambling.
We got back to Squamish that night at around 11:30pm so I headed back to the campground for a nice night sleep. The next day brought some relaxing and a few pitches of sport climbing at Zoe Wall and the Petrified Wall in Murrin Park with Sarah and Doug.
That night Jan and I planned on heading to climb Milk Road 10d/A0 9 pitches on the Tantalus Wall. We meet in the climber parking lot below the campground and made the short walk to the base. This route has wonderful sustained 5.10 climbing.
|Me on pitch 1 of Milk Road|
|Jan on a 10b pitch on Milk Road|
|Jan on one of the upper 10 pitches on Milk Road|
|Northeast Face of Joffre. Central Pillar is right of centre and Flavelle-Lane is the lower angle buttress in the centre.|
|Gen navigating the shrund|
|Gen 2/3 of the way up Flavelle-Lane|
|Summit!! With Matier, Hartzell and more behind|
Gen and I headed back to Pemberton for supper and sleep. The next morning was a bit slower. regardless we got our stuff ready and headed back to Squamish. We ended up climbing Calculus Crack and Memorial Crack. After a swim at Brohm Lake Gen headed back to Squamish and I head back to Pemberton to get a good sleep and then meet up with TJ for another adventure into the Joffre Lakes area. We planned on climbing Mt Matier's West Buttress 5.9 7 pitches.
As Thrusday went and Friday came I was up again at 4:45am ate breaky packed my stuff and then TJ arrived, Simone TJ's wife, owns a small organic farm in Pemberton called Root Down Organics if you are interested in learning more about the farm google them!!, and we head to the pass.
|TJ on the first pitch of Matier's West Buttress|
|TJ part way up|
|TJ close to the Summit|
|Upper Joffre Lake from the edge of the Matier Glacier on our descent|
Thanks for all the climbing again friends! I wouldn't be able to do these things without you all!!
|Life is good! Photo by TJ Reeves|