Saturday, March 9, 2013

Back at it!

Luc on the NB Pillar R WI5 50m in Moose River NS

When my cast went on in early January I was unsure of when I would be healthy enough to get out climbing. Well it was pretty clear when 7 weeks later I got my cast off. I was aloud to put full weight on my ankle and 2 days after my cast was off I was out ice climbing!

Climbing didn't hurt at all but walking on the other hand definitely hurt. I have been stretching out my ankle and working on strengthening my arch. Today is the first day I feel that walking is close to normal!
Luc on the FA of a WI4+ R 20m Joggins NS

So since my cast came off I have been trying to make up the time I was on the couch. So in the past 2 weeks I have been climbing a lot! Luc Gallant and I climbed 14 new ice routes in Joggins NS, we went to North Conway NH with Marty Theriault and climbed the classic Repetence WI5 and went for a stroll up the East Branch of Moose River in NS and climbed 3 more new routes!

Joggins NS is a World Heritage Site that is home to large fossil cliffs 40m high. When Luc and I first went in later February we climbed 4 20m routes, our next trip we found the 40m cliffs and climbed 3 more lines and our last we climbed 7 more. There is a tremendous amount of ice here! We climbed routes from WI3 20m to WI4+ 40m.
Luc rapping Fossil Wall
Luc on the FA of the Central Pillar WI4+ 40m in Joggins NS
After Joggins we headed to NH for some ice. The weather was a bit warm but we were still able to get on Repetence and a few other fun lines including Dracula WI4+. We took a stab at Fafnir but found it in thin/sporty conditions and decided to bail. 

Marty, Luc and Matt on the first pitch of Repetence
Marty climbing the crux's on Repetence WI5 140m
Luc on the 3rd pitch of Repetence.
High up on Dracula
Luc on Dracula R
Marty on Dracula Direct
Just before we bailed
Cannon - Black Dyke and Fafnir
On March 7th we headed to NS to search for the mythical ice that was said to be in the Moose River drainage close to Parrsboro NS. The valley is beautiful! As we walked up the valley becomes more and more dramatic until you come to 50m+ wall of ice and rock! 
Marty on the FA of New Brunswick Pillar WI5 50m Moose River NS
New Brunswick Pillar

Bagtown WI4 R 50m Photo by Luc Gallant

Max on the FA of Bagtown WI4 R 50m Moose River NS

We had warmer conditions which made for great ice climbing with poor protection. Overall Moose River has exceptional ice and there are a few more beautiful hard lines to be climbed!

Luc climbing NB Pillar

Thanks to Marty and Luc for dragging me out with them!
Info Centre Wall Joggins NS

1 comment:

  1. holy friggin' smokes! what an incredible amount of ice and NEW lines! CONGRATS! they look amazing!!!